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ORMUS CHEMICAL PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES

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This document may not be reproduced except in its entirety, and without changes.  Before trying any of the procedures described in this document, we advise you to thoroughly read this document several times.

This document was created by a group of people who believe that this information is of inestimable value to humanity and should be made widely available as soon as possible. The information here is declared to be in the public domain and we wish that it not become the sole property of any individual or group.

Here we describe some simple ways of making ORMUS so that readers can begin true scientific and intuitive experiments with these materials.

All of these methods are experimental.  The following information is presented to promote scientific research into the nature of these materials. Although these methods are based on our best knowledge at this time, further scientific research may prove some of these processes or theories to be inaccurate.

DISCLAIMER

The processes described here have not all been tested extensively. We do not guarantee the procedures in this document, nor the results obtained by using them. To the extent that you use or implement these procedures or the products thereof, you do so at your own risk. In no event will the authors of this document be liable to you, anyone else, or any organization or government, for any damages arising from your use, or your inability to use these procedures or the product thereof. Apply these procedures at your own risk.

VERIFICATION

The material made by some of these methods has been tested by an independent lab using X-ray fluorescence and photo spectrometry to identify the emission spectra of m-state materials.  (The lab prefers to remain anonymous).  The m-state spectral emissions signature was a broad, flat band rather than discrete lines.  The test also showed a significant amount of calcium and magnesium, but no toxins were evident in well-washed material made from unpolluted ocean water.

To further prove that these materials are a different state of the precious elements mentioned above, it is possible to electroplate these elements out as precious metals.

People familiar with Hudson's process claim that the materials produced using these methods are similar to Hudson's ORME materials.

INGESTION

We do not recommend the ingestion of these materials since so little is known about them. This information is being provided so that scientific inquiry can commence into the nature of these materials. We realize that, despite recommendations to the contrary, some people will ingest these materials. With this in mind we offer the following information to minimize any possible adverse effects from ingesting these materials. Please read the WARNING and CAUTION sections.

Some people have ingested the m-state materials made by these methods. They suggest that benefits are most likely when dosage is kept small.

Three methods of making ORMUS are described in this document: the WET method, the DRY method, and the BOILING GOLD method. For the materials extracted by the wet and dry procedures, one teaspoon of material, morning and evening, has been found by them to be not harmful over several weeks' time. A much smaller dose, on the order of a few drops a day, would be more appropriate for the material produced by the boiling gold method. We believe that the m-state may be homeopathic, so a much smaller dose may be the safest -- such as 1/64 teaspoon diluted in one quart of pure water, taken two or three ounces once or twice a day.

David Hudson gave some information on dosage in his Dallas speech at: http://monatomic.earth.com/david-hudson/1995-02-dallas-toc.html

WHITEGOLD WEB PAGE

You can find a discussion forum on the WhiteGold Web page. There you can post comments and questions on these procedures, and on ORMUS in general.

WhiteGold Web page: http://www.zz.com/WhiteGoldWeb/

INDEX

  1. Overview
  2. Necessary Supplies
  3. pH Paper or pH Meter
  4. Safety
  5. Wet Method
    1.  Starting Materials
  6. Problems Encountered
  7. Avoiding Problems


    More in another document...

OVERVIEW

This document describes three methods of producing ORMUS: the WET method, the DRY method, and the BOILING GOLD method.

All three methods use a chemical lab technique called "measuring pH."  The pH of a solution is a measure of its acid/base ratio. You may remember testing pH with litmus paper in high school. pH values less than pH 7 indicate an acid, like distilled white vinegar.  pH 7 is neutral, like pure water.  Greater than pH 7 is alkaline, like lye.

ORMUS precipitates between pH 8.5 and 10.78.

The WET method produces the least "effective" material but is relatively simple to perform.

Here is the basic WET method in brief.  It will be discussed later in detail:

1. Start with drinkable water or clean sea water.
2. Slowly add a solution of lye mixed with water to raise the pH above 8.5 but no higher than 10.78.
3. A white fluffy precipitate will form which you should allow to settle overnight.
4. Remove the liquid above the precipitate.
5. Thoroughly wash the precipitate.  It is calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, and a small amount of m-state material.
Here is the DRY method in brief:
1. Start with dry mineral powder.
2. Boil it in lye water at pH 12.
3. Filter and discard the precipitate.
4. Add distilled white vinegar or hydrochloric acid (HCl) to the filtered liquid to lower the pH to 8.5.
5. Let the precipitate settle overnight.
6. Remove the liquid above the precipitate.
7. Wash the precipitate.  That is calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, and a small amount of m-state material.
And here is the BOILING GOLD method in brief [the BOILING GOLD METHOD has never worked for those who have tried it and we don't recommend its use]:
1. Boil gold dust in a lye solution.
2. Filter out any solids.
3. Add distilled white vinegar or HCl to the remaining liquid to lower the pH to 8.5.
4. Let the precipitate settle overnight.
5. Remove the liquid above the precipitate.
6. Wash the precipitate.  It is almost pure gold m-state material.

NECESSARY SUPPLIES TO MAKE M-STATE

A glass or stainless steel pot. If you use stainless-steel pots, check for steel particles in your precipitate. Although unlikely, this problem may occur if you use large amounts of HCl to lower the pH. Never use aluminum containers or utensils because aluminum will react with acids like HCl and alkalis like lye, and will poison you.

Distilled water from a grocery store.

A stainless steel spatula or knife for stirring, from a grocery store. Never use aluminum containers or utensils because aluminum will react with acids like HCl and alkalis like lye, and will poison you.

A few glass jars.  Tall skinny ones work best.

Lye (sodium hydroxide or NaOH).  We will use the term "lye" in this document rather than "sodium hydroxide" or "NaOH" since it is shorter and more familiar to most people.  Grocery store lye, such as Lewis Red Devil Lye, is not as pure and uncontaminated as laboratory or food-grade lye.  We strongly recommend that laboratory or food grade sodium hydroxide be used if the m-state is intended for ingestion since grocery store lye may contain dangerous contaminants.  Note: Virtually no lye will be present in the final product so it will be safe to ingest.  In any case, lye is not toxic, and it is not caustic when sufficiently diluted (as in these methods).

HCl (hydrochloric acid or muriatic acid).  We will use the term "HCl" in this document rather than "hydrochloric acid" or "muriatic acid" since it is shorter.  You can use muriatic acid (31% HCl) from a hardware store, but laboratory, electronic or food-grade HCl is less likely to be contaminated.  We strongly recommend that laboratory, electronic or food grade hydrocholoric acid be used if the m-state is intended for ingestion since muriatic acid from a hardware store may contain dangerous contaminants.  The presence of iron as a contaminant in the acid may interfere with the m-state materials in some applications.

Three eyedropper bottles from a pharmacy.  An alternative to eyedroppers is squirt bottles made of HDPE.  Find them at a natural foods store or other store which sells bulk liquid products like vegetable oils or lotions.

A large 50 cc plastic syringe from a veterinary supply shop or a lab-supply house. Some suppliers are listed near the end of this document under LAB SUPPLIES.

pH paper or a pH meter.  You can get pH paper (pH 1 to 12) from a lab-supply company or a mining supply store.  Use new paper because old paper becomes inaccurate.  Some suppliers are listed near the end of this document under LAB SUPPLIES.
 
 

pH PAPER OR pH METER?

Some experimenters say not to rely on a pH meter because its readings vary with temperature and ionization.  Also, a meter costs much more than pH paper.  Many pH meter probes can be damaged by very strong acids or alkalis.  But some say that a pH meter is essential, for these reasons:
  • pH paper cannot track rapid changes in pH.
  • pH paper does not resolve pH readings finely enough.  It's hard to tell the difference between pH 9.5, 10.0, and 11.5.
  • pH meters are best used to get accurate readings between pH 8.5 and 10.78, which is the main range of concern in these methods.
  • pH meters can spot check any reading with a standard buffer solution.
  • a pH meter is more convenient.
Use only a meter that has an automatic temperature-correcting function up to 100 degrees C.

SAFETY TIPS

Clean your containers so that you'd feel safe drinking out of them.  Boil containers, syringes, siphons and so on before use to sterilize them.

CAUTION!!
Lye can damage the eyes by rendering the cornea opaque, a form of eye damage that is irreparable.  Lye can burn skin, clothes and eyes.  Work near a sink, faucet, or other source of wash water.  You might keep a spray bottle of distilled white vinegar handy to use against spills.

If you spill lye on your clothes or body, immediately wash it off with lots of water.  When working with lye, avoid touching your face or rubbing your eyes.  Do not handle lye around food. Use adequate ventilation such as a range hood.  Do not dump waste water on the ground.  Lye is generally safe to put down the drain, but don't mix it with any acid that may be in the drain as it can react explosively.

When working with lye, please wear goggles or a full-face visor (an industrial face protector), neoprene gloves, and a PVC lab apron.  Sources for this safety clothing are in the Appendix near the end of this document.

Keep children and pets away from the work area, and do not leave it unattended if children or pets are around.

Glass can shatter with hot liquids.  Pour boiling liquid from your heating container into a stainless steel mixing bowl to cool before pouring the liquid into a glass container.
 

THE WET METHOD

STARTING MATERIALS FOR THE WET METHOD

Some starting materials produce a lot of precipitate, while others do not.  Listed below are materials that have been shown to produce some precipitate from the WET method:
  • Some municipal drinking water
  • Some hot springs water without sulfur
  • Trace Minerals Inland Sea Water
  • Urine
  • Some lake or river water whose bed or course is limestone.
  • Some well water.  Ground water is probably more likely to contain m-state than surface water (except for sea water).
  • Sea water and sea water reconstituted from certain brands of sea salt, especially from the Great Salt Lake.
  • Dead Sea water.
  • Certain brands of unrefined sea salt are as good as sea water: Celtic Gray Sea Salt (from health food stores) and Lima Atlantic Sea Salt (from some health food stores).  Add distilled water and use the WET method.  Filter the scum first.
The WET method performed on ocean or Dead Sea water produces eleven different m-state elements.

The following materials are ranked in order from most to least m-state content:

  1. Dead Sea water
  2. Salt Lake water
  3. Ocean water
  4. Well water

Listed below are materials that have been found to produce little or no precipitate from the WET method:

  • Water from some alkali lakes (pH above 8.5).
  • Hot springs with sulfur (because sulfur reduces m-state to metal).
  • Mineral-free lake or river water
  • Dead Sea mineral salts that contain sulfur or sulfates, such as "Sea Mineral Bath from the Dead Sea" by Dead Sea Works Ltd. for Sea Minerals Co., and Trace Minerals Research "ConcenTrace Trace Mineral Drops" from the Great Salt Lake.
For the following methods to work, some researchers claim that magnesium or magnesium hydroxide -- Mg(OH)2 -- must be present in the starting material.  (Since the Boiling Gold method is effective without any magnesium, this claim will need to be tested.)  Sea water already has Mg(OH)2, so you don't need to add it to sea water.  Try your water first.  If you don't get any precipitate, you might add a teaspoon per gallon of Epsom salts to the starting material for its magnesium.  If you do add Epsom salts, the magnesium from them will be a large portion of the precipitate.

WARNING!!

PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED
The following problems have been encountered by some folks who have made m-state for consumption:

  • Some people have gotten quite sick from consuming m-state made from sea water collected at a marina.  This water contained high levels of lead and other contaminants.
  • Other people have gotten quite sick from consuming m-state materials which were made improperly.  These materials were made without the use of pH test paper or meters and the resulting material contained toxic metals.  Please remember that old pH paper can become inaccurate.
  • People have gotten sick from consuming m-state materials which contained bacteria because they were not sterilized or stored properly.
  • It is possible to bring the pH of your source material up too quickly, especially if you use lye in too high a concentration.  This could result in local areas of very high pH within your solution.  These high pH areas could allow toxic metals to precipitate and mix with your desired precipitate.
  • M-state platinum might be considered toxic by some since it makes you quite ill if you consume alcohol.  No one has reported this effect from consuming m-state from sea water.
  • Some people have used Teflon® coated aluminum sauce pans for heating lye or lye water.  The Teflon® got scratched and the aluminum started dissolving in the lye water producing hydrogen gas which could have exploded.  The liquid was contaminated with aluminum which is a poison.

AVOIDING PROBLEMS

  • Use sea water, reconstituted sea water made from sea salt or Dead Sea salt, or salt lake water.  In general, start with a clean and deep source of water.  Some people have gone out to sea in boats to collect sea water from 100 feet deep.
  • Generally avoid water that has lead, arsenic or other toxic elements in it.  Start with water that is drinkable except for salt content.
  • Conduct an elemental and toxic analysis of questionable starting-material sources (such as seawater collected close to the shore, or near sources of industrial waste runoff).
  • Boiling in lye water kills bacteria but it does not destroy toxic metals or chemicals in your source water.
  • Follow these instructions and slowly change the pH of your solution.
  • Avoid water with sulfur or sulfates in it because such water produces little or no m-state precipitate.
  • Never use aluminum containers or utensils because aluminum will react with acids like HCl and alkalis like lye, and could poison you.
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