The Wet Method of making Ormus
This method will make
for you the same ormus that you previously bought from Don Nance.
This simple method can
be done in your kitchen. It is called the wet method because it is made from sea water (or Great Lakes water), or a mixture of water and fresh sea salt. There are a number of
recipes on the Internet that tell how to use this method to make an ormus product. I tried many of them, and I
could never get them to work. Therefore for year after year I stuck with using ormus water made from my ormus
Then I attended an ormus
conference in 2009. One of the presenters was a wonderful man by the name of Don Nance. His talk to us was good,
but what really blew me away was the generosity and lovingness with which he readily shared all of his knowledge
with us. As I have previously mentioned, Don makes an ormus product that he sells on the Internet. Therefore one
could assume that he would be reluctant to share his secrets with the world. Not so. He freely gave us wonderful
and detailed instructions, as he personally demonstrated to us his wet method process. So now that is the
process that I personally use. And that is the process that I am going to show seawater.JPGyou
You will need the
1. A large glass mixing bowl, at least 5
2. A hand-held ph meter. The one shown
here costs about $40.00 and I bought it off the Internet. Be sure to get one that reads from the 7.0 to 12.0 ph
3. Two wooden clothespins, glued
together as shown, to hold the ph meter in the bowl. This frees up both of your hands for the mixing
4. A pint (16 oz.) of concentrated and
purified sea water or Great Lakes salt water. The bottle shown cost less
than $10.00 and was found on the Internet. If you choose to try regular salt water, it will have to be carefully
boiled and filtered to remove all impurities, and you will use 32 oz. of regular sea water.
5. A non-metallic stirrer. A regular
kitchen plastic spoon works. I use a cheap wooden paint stirrer that is 12 inches long.
6. A glass measuring cup, at least
7. Pure lye (sodium hydroxide). I bought
mine from a science supply company on the internet. The government has started making the Red Devil Lye Company
put ingredients in their lye so it is no longer safe to use Red Devil Lye. Some people buy their lye from
plumbing supply stores.
8. Two gallons of pure distilled water.
I buy mine at the grocery store and pay about $1.00 per gallon. It is important to use pure distilled water
because not only is it clean, it has no minerals in it that might interfere with the chemical
9. A small bottle of white distilled
vinegar. This will be used in an emergency, should you accidently raise the ph of your mixture past 10.78. You
will immediately add a small amount of the vinegar (an acid) to reduce the ph back down below
10. mixingbowl.JPGAbout 4 ft. of clear 3/8 inch plastic
1. Add the 16 oz. bottle of sea mineral
water to the bowl.
2. The distilled water should be a room
temperature. Now add the distilled water to the bowl. Fill the mixing bowl to within 1.5 inches of the top with
3. Put two teaspoons of powdered lye
into the small glass measuring cup. Now add 16 teaspoons (the ratio is 8 times as much water as there is lye) of
water to the cup, and gently shake to mix. Heat should be given off as the water and lye mix. Note: Never add
lye to water, it may explode and burn your eyes or skin. Water and lye can be dangerous. It will burn your eyes,
skin and clothing if you are not careful.
4. Turn the calibrated ph meter on and
mount it in the wooden clothespin holder on the side of the bowl.
5. Check the ph of the water in the
large mixing bowl. It should be somewhere between
7.5 and 9.0.
6. Now the most important and critical
part. You must be very patient and methodical. If you try to rush this, you may ruin your batch. Do this part
very slowly. Begin to stir the mixture of water with the mixing spoon. Now slowly pour a very small trickle of
lye water from the measuring cup into the bowl as you continue stirring. From now on, you must continuously stir
the water until the target ph of 10.7 is reached. Watch the ph meter carefully. As you very slowly add the lye
water, the ph of the mixture should slowly rise. The emphasis is to pour slowly! Keep stirring the mixture at
all times to insure that the ph meter is getting a correct reading of the exact ph of the mixture. As you do
this, you may observe the phenomenon that there are “level spots” in the ph reading. This means that you will
get to a spot where, as you continue to add lye water, the ph does not go up. Be very carefully here. You have
hit a level spot. The tendency here is to get impatient and add too much lye water. This will be a mistake,
because once the level spot has been passed, the ph may just jump dramatically.
7. Your objective is to get the mixture
raised to a ph of exactly 10.78. Many ph meters will read to only 10.7. This is good enough! Actually, when you
get the mixture to a point where the ph meter fluctuates between 10.6 and 10.7 you are finished. This is good
enough. You can stop now.
8. If you accidently get the ph of your
mixture to 10.8 or above, quickly add a small amount of white vinegar to bring the ph down again below 10.7, and
9. Once you have your mixture at a
steady ph of 10.6 to 10.7 you are finished. You will notice that a white material has begun to settle out of the
water. This white material is the monatomic form of gold and other precious metals that is precipitated from the
precious metals that naturally exist in the sea water.
10. At this point you must wait from 4 to 6 hours for the white
material to finish precipitating. I usually wait overnight for this to happen. I place a large inverted platter
over the mixing bowl to protect the ingredients, and then cover everything with a towel to keep light
11. The next morning you will notice that the white precipitate
is now concentrated in the bottom 1/3 of the bowl. This wet white precipitate is what you want to harvest. So,
using the 4 ft. piece of 3/8 inch plastic tubing, carefully siphon as much of the clear water out of the bowl as
is possible without disturbing the white precipitate on the bottom. My procedure is to place one end of the clear plastic tubing
in the same wooden clothespin holder that I used to hold the ph meter. Then I adjust the end of the tubing so
that it rests about 3/16 in. above the white precipitate. Then I place the other end of the tubing into a white
plastic 5 gallon bucket that is on the floor. Suck on that end until the flow of water starts, then place that
end into the bucket as the clear water drains out of the mixing bowl.
12. You will be left with the layer of white precipitate in water
plus about 3/16 inch of clear water above it. This is the final product. Pour it into a pitcher and then store
in glass bottles. I wrap my bottles in aluminum foil to protect the precipitate as much as possible from
magnetic and electrical fields.
This is it. Now you have
made a 4 to 6 week supply of ormus precipitate that is powerful and effective. Begin by taking ½ teaspoon twice
daily and gradually build up to two tablespoons twice daily. The cost for this 4 to 6 week supply will be about
$10.00. Not bad!
1. Many people choose to take their bowl
that has the wet precipitate in it and add more distilled water to refill the bowl. They stir the mixture again.
Then they repeat the settling process, again draining off the excess water. They may do this 3 or 4 times. This
is called “washing” the precipitate. It removes most of the salty taste from the precipitate.
prefer to not “wash” the precipitate. I have several reasons for this. First of all, I like the salty taste. And
the natural sea salt is healthy for you, giving you beneficial minerals and trace elements from the sea water.
But there is a more important reason. The salt in the mix protects the ormus particles from damage by light,
electrical and magnetic fields. For some reason, the ormus likes to “hide out” in the salt matrix. So by leaving
the salt in the mix, you have a better and stronger ormus product, with an improved shelf
Notes by Don Nance
I let it precipitate and settle at about pH 10.7...when you are precipitating
this material you get to a "plateau" where you are adding RDL solution but the pH is not rising. This energetic
phenomenon seems to indicate the presence of ORMEs/M-state. Once you eventually go past this plateau the pH
begins to rise quickly or spike upwards. I stop there.
I let the precipitate settle overnight and carefully pour the clear top water
I take just the precipitate and slowly add a 6N (about 20%) HCL solution made from
the SMARTFG (food grade muriatic acid-Smart brand) while stirring like crazy and slowly reduce the pH of the slurry
to around 8.0 - 8.5 (it wants to creep around a bit :)
An assay of this solution is sample SMARTFG (Smart brand food grade
I let the pH adjusted slurry settle and separate it from the clear top water and wash
it one time with three times as much distilled water as precipitate by volume.
I let it settle overnight again and separate it as the